David Hulley
On Wine
The proof is in the Pudding
If there is anyone out there who still believes that Ontario is an international wine industry bumpkin, I have more evidence to the contrary. It is a fact that we can produce one of the most challenging wine varietals in the world to standards that rival the best on the planet. I refer to, of course, Pinot Noir but perhaps not so obviously to a relatively new winery Le Clos Jordanne. I assume the winey reference may be a bit obscure to most as they’ve never seen it on any LCBO shelf. Why? Most Le Clos Jordanne releases at the LCBO have sold out on the day of release.
Obviously a number of “wine insiders” have zeroed in on this exceptional product, but I am more interested in everyone knowing how well they represent Ontario. When Le Clos Jordanne wines are tasted “blind” around world in sophisticated centres like London, New York and Paris they are most often mistaken for grand cru or premiere cru Burgundies. The shock on the international wine expert faces as the Ontario “native” is revealed often demands a re-taste. With amazement, even a second blind tasting produces a consistent opinion. The professionals cannot believe that a Pinot Noir from a modest new world wine region could rival the best pedigreed wines of the Cote d’Or, France.
In the late 1990s one of Burgundy’s top producers, the Boisset family, began a global search for a “new world” home. Given the breadth and financial success of their company the Boisset’s choice was not limited in any way. They carefully considered California, Oregon and New Zealand among the many sites; still their attention was constantly pulled back to a unique microclimate on the Niagara Escarpment. In partnership with Vincor (now Constellation Brands) the specific vineyard sites were chosen. Jean-Charles Boisset, Vice President of Boisset recalls: “In 1998, I fell in love with this land. We sensed the potential; we could feel it, the terroir.” He continued, “The earth truly speaks and given our generations of experience in Burgundy we could understand and appreciate the message of the Niagara terroir.”
Although the “language” was similar and recognizable, it still takes skilled, passionate grape growers and winemakers to properly translate this “voice.” Boisset shrewdly chose an ex-pat Montrealer with international winemaking experience from both Oregon and Burgundy. Thomas Bachelder was thrilled to take on the position of senior viniculturalist and began the long journey of learning how to let the land speak through Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Ably assisted by Sebastien Jacquey and a hardworking group of interns from both local wine schools and abroad, the team seems to be hitting its stride with the release of the 2006 vintage.
The best news is that the wine is now available to all. With a Vintages “Wine of the Month” release of 2000 cases on Dec. 6, the wine should be around for more than a day. Grab yourself a bottle and see how Ontario stands toe-to-toe with the best. We’re small but mighty.
(Enologist, David Hulley is president of Enosgroup Consulting, a company specializing in corporate wine/social etiquette training, and wine/winery investments. He can also be heard nationally on Weekends — “Food and Wine with David Hulley.” Locally you can tune him in on Saturdays on 1010 CFRB. David can be reached at
david@davidhulley.com)
