David Hulley
On Wine

Step Out and Step Up


It is well known that victory will go to those who divide and conquer.  Most often this has a very ominous tone, but when it comes to wines we can all win.  To begin, the presentation of a new wine or series of wines to the public must always have a clear message and market.  Most often this key segmentation is based solely on price.  Still, it is important to note that wineries are organic, developing places in constant creative flux.  They must express this change or die as a business.

As wineries develop they often reveal this change by creating a second or third “label”.  Building on the success of their brand they wish to explore other market segments and let the creative “genie” out.  Keeping the same label while trying to push into other areas will only lead to confusion and eventual loss of market.  Consumers start to wonder if the brand is about economy or luxury.  Even though the wines will be completely unique, the key to product line segmentation within a brand must be packaging.

When winemakers craft their vintages it is their pleasure and responsibility to facilitate the expression of the year and vineyard through the different wines that they make.  Still, not all wines are created equal.  Depending upon the age of the vineyard, the grape vines planted and the viticultural practices employed over the growing season, the nature of the harvested grapes will vary immensely.  The old adage, “wines are created in the vineyard”, is very true but only when it is engaged by talented winemakers.  Literally, hundreds of decisions are made long before the grapes arrive at the winery door to ensure the specific qualities that the winemaker is seeking.  It is easy to comprehend that the inputs and level of hand care are far greater for premium grapes than for economy fruit and each lot is handled very differently by the winemaker.

There are many reasons for creating second labels besides mere market growth.  Most often wineries will gain access to special vineyards or will see their own vineyards begin to mature to the point where they can produce notable harvests.  At this point the winemaker will begin to cull the best and suggest a new “line” of wines.

Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery has moved forward in just such a fashion.  Spring boarding off of their successes in the “wine for every day” category, they have now started a second, premium line called the Estate Series.  With vineyards maturing and the winemaker’s understanding of the terroir growing this premium line was a natural progression.  Many fans of the Gretzky wines like the widely available products but they have also been looking toward more complex wines for special occasions.

Even an industry giant like Gallo of California needed to expand into the premium market.  Their top of the line Sonoma Series are exquisite although not well accepted.  The name “Gallo” is too closely linked with jug wine.  In opposition, Gretzky Estates Winery has easily made the jump as their every day wines were always considered top of the category for quality.

When your favourite winery decides to diversify and release a premium line it is time to celebrate.  The wine master you’ve followed and loved for years is now able to show you winemaking at a higher level.   You are the benefactor of the excise of their creative “demons”.
(Enologist, David Hulley is president of Enosgroup Consulting, a company specializing in corporate wine/social etiquette training, and wine/winery investments. He can also be heard nationally on Weekends — “Food and Wine with David Hulley.” Locally you can tune him in on Saturdays on 1010 CFRB. David can be reached at david@davidhulley.com)