David Hulley
On Wine


The teacher and ambassador at large


It is true that the apple does not fall far from the tree. Greatness begets great-ness and I’m not using that term lightly. Walter Gretzky, the father of “the Great One” is simply a force of nature. I had the distinct pleasure of his company during a recent food and wine festival in Quebec City. It was an inspirational experience that I will never forget.

Walter Gretzky was attending the festival representing his son Wayne and the Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery. Within the festival there was a special dinner featuring the wines and the exceptional cuisine of the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac’s renowned Champlain Restaurant. Besides having the challenges of recovering from a near-fatal brain aneurysm in 1991 and being seventy years of age, Walter has the energy and zest for life of a man half his age. He spoke very eloquently about the wines, his family, and most importantly the charitable, Wayne Gretzky Foundation, a key benefactor of the sales of all Gretzky wines. Even after a dynamic address, Walter found the energy to visit every table telling stories and signing autographs.

It made me think how important it is for all wineries to have their own ambassador-at-large. Without a doubt, Walter was the embodiment of Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery that night. The high quality of the wines along with Walter’s indomitable spirit created a lasting positive impression. Wayne is of course very fortunate to have his effervescent father who is willing and able to carry out this important duty. One would expect that after a days’ travel and a high-energy evening, a 70-year old man would be up for little more than his bedtime routine. This was not the case with Walter. I had the honour of escorting him back to the media hospitality suite. On the way it was like accompanying a rock star. People would stop him in the halls just to shake his hand. Walter, the consummate gentlemen, made time for everyone. Notably, one fan stopped him just as we were about to ascend in the elevator. Even the nagging elevator alarm announcing the door ajar would not stop Walter from spreading a little joy.

In the suite Walter continued to entertain our small media group by playing the mentoring quizmaster. Always the teacher, his message came through a hockey metaphor: you’ll never score unless you possess the puck.

In that spirit, I return to the thought that every winery needs someone to carry the public image “puck.” Notable successes such as Robert Mondavi, Donald Ziraldo, and Miguel Torres should be proof enough. It takes an individual of strength, charm and wit to do it successfully.

In all three categories, Walter Gretzky excels. I should mention that there is one more thing: the person must have the common touch. And with a sparkle in his eye Walter continued, “David, I’ll buy you a pop and a hot dog if you can figure this one out.”

(Enologist, David Hulley is president of Enosgroup Consulting, a company specializing in corporate wine/social etiquette training, and wine/winery investments. He can also be heard nationally on Weekends — “Food and Wine with David Hulley.” Locally you can tune him in on Saturdays on 1010 CFRB. David can be reached at david@davidhulley.com)